Should You Stake a Newly Planted Tree?
Above: a properly guyed tree with 3 points of attachment at less than 2/3 the height of the tree.
As we near Autumn, many homeowners will consider planting a new tree in their landscape. After all, spring and fall are both good times to plant landscape trees.
A question some may be asking is whether you should stake or guy a newly planted tree.
Former Purdue Extension urban forestry expert Lindsey Purcell (now retired) authored the Purdue Extension publication entitled “Tree Support Systems.” Purcell is currently the Executive Director of the Indiana Arborist Association.
Purcell indicated that “No” is the likely answer to this common question.
“Trees establish themselves quite well in normal situations,” said Purcell. “Support systems such as staking and guying are, in most cases, unnecessary and can even be detrimental.” He said movement caused by the wind is crucial to help saplings develop into strong, structurally balanced trees.
Purcell said that trees that freely sway in the wind are actually “working out”! “Wind sway has been shown to promote additional growth of wood fibers in the lower trunk,” he said.
“However, in special situations, staking, guying, or a similar system may be needed to hold trees upright until adequate root growth anchors them firmly in the soil,” said Purcell. “When necessary, the support system must be installed properly and removed at the appropriate time to prevent damage.”
Purcell said that when stakes are needed, timing depends on the environment and the type of tree. Examples of situations where staking or guying may improve chances of successful tree establishment include:
* Bare-root trees and container-grown trees with small, lightweight root balls
* Large evergreen trees with high wind resistance
* Open sites exposed to strong winds
* Taller trees with undersized root balls
* Trees in areas with high rates of vandalism
Purcell explained the three main types of tree support systems.
Guying is temporary and typically used on larger trees that are transplanted balled-and-burlapped. “Three points of attachment provide the best support for these large-tree installations,” said Purcell. “Often this is done by attaching a wire to an anchor and slipping it through hose material around the tree.” He said that when guying, attach the guy-wires on the lower half of the trunk, always less than 2/3 the height of the tree to reduce the chance of the tree breaking at the attachment point. He added that some movement should be allowed to stimulate trunk taper and root anchorage.
Staking connects the trunk via flexible ties to 1-4 nearby steel or wooden posts. “This is a common approach on smaller trees or containerized tree stock,” said Purcell. “Proper tension is important in staking; allow some movement for trunk and root development.”
Underground stabilizing systems are also effective and economical for stabilizing the root balls on larger balled-and-burlapped trees. Commercial products are available, or you can make your own.
“Improperly staked trees suffer from poor development such as decreased trunk diameters and smaller root systems—and may be unable to stay upright after you take the supports away,” said Purcell. “Often trunk tissue suffers from rubbing and may even be girdled by support materials.” Also, due to poor development and taper, previously supported trunks are more likely to break off in high winds or blow over after stakes are removed, according to Purcell.
“Staking and guying a tree trunk to keep it upright can be a necessary, temporary support system, but does not compensate for poor root development and establishment long-term,” said Purcell.
“Staking trees too high, too tightly, and for too long are the most common causes of tree damage,” said Purcell. Improper staking can cause stem abrasions and trunk girdling. Purcell urged homeowners to review the anchor, attachment point, and tension on a regular basis, adjusting as needed to make certain the supports are effective and not damaging the tree. If a tree is supported, the ties and guys should be removed as soon as it is feasible, usually no later than after one growing season or one year.
For more information, access the Purdue Extension publication “Tree Support Systems” at the Purdue Education Store, https://edustore.purdue.edu.