Tomato Timeline

1. Diagnose the Problem Correctly
   Before you can treat any disorder, you have to identify
   the problem correctly. Photographs may help you diagnose tomato
   diseases. However, it may be wise to test a sample
   for an accurate diagnosis. You can bring a sample to
   the Pike County Purdue Extension office or
   you can send a sample to the Purdue Plant and Pest
   Diagnostic Laboratory.
   Instructions on how to prepare and send a sample may
   be found on the Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic
   Laboratory website, www.ppdl.purdue.edu. 
2. Plant Resistant Varieties
   Whenever possible, choose varieties that have
   resistance to diseases. For example, tomato varieties
   are available that are resistant to Verticillium wilt,
   Fusarium wilt, and root-knot nematode — thus, the
   letters VFN are often associated with tomato varieties
   that have such resistances. There are no other practical
   means of controlling these diseases except for resistant
   varieties.
3. Practice Crop Rotation, Fall Tillage, & Sanitation
   Whenever possible, do not plant tomatoes in the same
   place year after year. Many pathogens, such as the ones
   that cause early blight, survive from year to year in
   crop debris. 
   If it is not possible to rotate to a different plot of
   ground each year, remove tomato plants from the
   garden as soon as you complete harvest. 
   Use clean stakes or cages each year. 
4. Maintain Plant Vigor
   Tomatoes planted in welltilled, well-drained, and properly fertilized soil, will
   be less prone to early blight and Septoria infection.
   They grow best
   in a slightly acidic soil, pH 6.2 to 6.8. Water stress usually precedes blossom-end rot and
   can make plants more susceptible to early blight and
   Septoria leaf spot infection. At midseason, full-grown
   tomato plants require about 1 inch of water a week.
   Add water gradually and allow it to soak into the
   soil. Avoid overhead irrigations, which can lead to
   an increase in foliar diseases. 
5. Use Fungicides as Needed
   Regardless of the efforts to prevent disease, many
   tomato gardens will have sufficient foliar disease to
   compromise yield or fruit quality.
   If you decide to apply fungicides, the following checklist might be
   helpful:
   • Be safe. Before you purchase a fungicide, check the
   label to be sure that it will control the diseases your
   plants have, and that it is safe to use on tomatoes.
   By law, all fungicide labels are required to list such
   information. Use the rate on the label and always
   wear the proper protective wear.
   • Use a pressure sprayer for best results. Compared
   to dusting plants, mixing fungicides with water and
   applying them with a pressure sprayer allows much
   better coverage and distribution of the fungicide on
   the plant.
   • Apply fungicides before disease symptoms occur or
   in the early stages of the disease. These applications
   will be more effective than applications made after
   the disease is well along. Begin sprays when plants
   approach 10 to 12 inches tall and continue spraying
   at 7- to 14-day intervals throughout the season,
   especially if disease has been severe in recent years.

Below are just a few of the common issues we see with tomato plants throughout the growing season. 
Please contact Alex with any questions you may have!

Infectious Diseases

Early Blight
Septoria Leaf Spot
Fusarium Wilt and Verticillium Wilt
Bacterial Spot and Bacterial Speck
Root-knot Nematode

Nonifectious Disorders

Blossom-end Rot
Catfacing
Herbicide Injury